Portmeirion: a whimsical blend of architectural styles constructed during the 1920s
Amidst the enchanting scenery of Portmeirion, two mysterious figures in sunglasses and elegant top hats are escorting a captured chess piece to the edge of a colossal chessboard. Commanding voices amplified through megaphones guide the remaining pieces, while security guards swiftly apprehend a defiant rook, offering a striking performance with their rubber truncheons.
Earlier, I found myself swept away in the midst of an exhilarating election gathering. Cloaked in vibrant attire and proudly displaying a rosette, I joined a lively chorus of jeers directed at one of the candidates. As he attempted to secure our votes, we gleefully chanted "Unmutual!" in unison. However, the candidate summoned his inner resolve and boldly declared, "I am not a number, I am a free man," much to our amusement and merciless laughter.
If you're a fan of The Prisoner, the mysterious 1960s TV series, you'll instantly understand the enchanting allure of it all. For those not familiar, however, the scene may appear as the musings of a mind adrift. Picture yourself in The Village, unsure of whose allegiance to claim.
What truly sets this enigmatic setting apart is its backdrop: a natural amphitheatre adorned with pastel-hued, idiosyncratic structures. From a towering Tuscan-like edifice to a domed columned rotunda, peculiar constructions dot the landscape at every turn.
Moreover, across the way, as the tide recedes, a golden sandbar emerges, twinkling in the estuary. This is Portmeirion, a coastal resort nestled in North Wales. It just might be the most extraordinary holiday village on our planet - a realm so otherworldly, it defies rationality.
Portmeirion, an architectural masterpiece, was built by Clough Williams-Ellis over a span of more than fifty years, from 1925 to 1976.
Renowned actor Patrick McGoohan, seeking to break free from the constraints of his previous spy series, chose Portmeirion as the captivating backdrop for his new show, The Prisoner. In this intriguing television series, the protagonist, known only as Number Six, endeavors to escape the clutches of the secret service.
The opening sequence of The Prisoner reveals Number Six awakening in a charming yet mysteriously eerie location, aptly named The Village. This meticulously designed police state evokes a sense of absurdity reminiscent of the works of Lewis Carroll.
Immerse yourself in the captivating world of The Prisoner's Portmeirion, where architectural brilliance and gripping storytelling converge - a fusion that makes it one of the most peculiar holiday destinations on Earth.
Throughout the 17 episodes of the series, Number Six relentlessly pursues his escape from The Village, facing off against the prison's authorities - Number Two and the enigmatic Number One. Engaging in mind-bending experiments and even encountering a massive white weather balloon, Number Six's adventures are undoubtedly peculiar. To immerse myself further in the show's world, I watched multiple episodes alongside my 10-year-old daughter in anticipation of our visit.
Despite the less-than-impressive visual effects by today's standards, my daughter and I found ourselves captivated by the extraordinary setting provided by Portmeirion. This holiday village serves as the backdrop for the show's intriguing plot twists and turns. As we explored its picturesque surroundings, we were greeted with awe-inspiring sights that truly enhance the overall experience.
Portmeirion and The Prisoner – a unique and enigmatic holiday village unlike any other.
With its surreal and whimsical architecture, one could easily imagine that Portmeirion was plucked straight out of the pages of a Lewis Carroll novel. The late Patrick McGoohan, star of the iconic TV series Danger Man, was captivated by the charm of this village during filming and saw in it the perfect backdrop for his enigmatic character, Number Six.
The meticulously manicured streets and picturesque façades of The Village create an unsettling juxtaposition between beauty and malevolence. It's as if behind every enchanting smile, a hidden agenda lurks. This feeling of eerie perfection is so captivating that it drew in an influx of visitors after the show's finale, propelling annual visitor numbers to double from 50,000 to an impressive 100,000.
Discover the grounds of the Hotel Portmeirion, Wales, and immerse yourself in the mysterious allure of The Village. Explore its whimsical charm, and let your imagination run wild as you unravel the secrets it holds.
Members of Six of One, the Prisoner appreciation society, have been coming to Portmeirion every spring since 1977 to discuss the series, to wallow in its atmosphere and to reenact key scenes. “Now you’ll see us at our silliest,” says one its members, as we march through the village along the estuary of the Dwyrid River holding posters of Patrick McGoohan. It’s high tide and the sun is sparkling on the waves beyond the breakwater. Our capes, coloured umbrellas, and the shouts of “Six for Two!” and “Two for Two!” stun a pod of passing kayakers into open-mouthed silence.
Roughly 200 people have made the pilgrimage – it would be more, but organisers have had to limit numbers because of the capacity of Portmeirion’s Town Hall. Fans have come from France, Germany, the US, Canada and Italy. The Prisoner gift shop is doing a roaring trade in piped blazers, coloured capes and badges with penny-farthings on them.
The unique and captivating allure of Portmeirion as a holiday village cannot be disputed. From its enigmatic ambiance to its picturesque beauty, Portmeirion offers a truly extraordinary experience for visitors.
Glenies McCairns, charged with the responsibility of orchestrating the reenactments, guides us through this captivating journey. As we pause momentarily before venturing to our next destination within the village, one of our fellow travelers, in search of the nearest restroom, is directed to the Town Hall. And as I resist the urge to make a jest reminiscent of a comedic mime, it becomes evident that Portmeirion's charm extends far beyond the surface.
The Prisoner, cherished by Glenies and her fellow fan club members, is not merely an assemblage of signature phrases and enigmatic plot twists. It is an exquisitely crafted work of art, a philosophical reflection on the everlasting struggle against conformity. The village serves as a canvas for both visitors and locals alike, inspiring introspection and an appreciation for a different way of life.
“It’s about the freedom of the individual,” Glenies says. “ It’s about how you can retain your own identity in a world where if you step out of line, you get labelled.”
The 17 episodes of The Prisoner certainly dealt presciently with subjects such as mass surveillance, the limits of freedom and pressure to conform. But they also featured a fictional martial art called kosho whose absurdity is beyond my powers of description. Let me just say that it involves motorcycle helmets, a tank of water and a trampoline.
The picturesque village is nestled on the tranquil estuary of the River Dwyryd, adding to its charm and allure.
Although The Prisoner's unconventional ending may have left some viewers wanting more, it sparked a passionate following among those who appreciated its uniqueness and enigmatic narrative. In fact, the show's creator, Patrick McGoohan, revealed that the divisive conclusion resulted in a fervent reaction from the audience, leading him to seek refuge from the backlash.
Explore the breathtaking beauty of Portmeirion, where history, intrigue, and natural splendor merge seamlessly, leaving an indelible impression on all who visit.
When The Prisoner made its debut in the UK in color during the 1970s, it captured the attention of Dave Barrie, a retired wine-taster and co-founder of the fan-club dedicated to the series. In his enthusiasm to connect with like-minded individuals, Dave wrote a letter to ITV, which led to his name and address being broadcasted on the program. This unexpected exposure resulted in a group of strangers driving from Sutton Coldfield to Dave's home in Cheltenham, eager to engage in a discussion about the show's meaning.
The allure of The Prisoner was so strong that it compelled these enthusiasts to embark on a late-night journey. Establishing an instant camaraderie, Dave would have welcomed their arrival and delved into a passionate conversation dissecting the intricate themes and concepts explored in the series. It's a testament to the power of storytelling to engender connections and fuel the imagination.
Portmeirion, known for its astonishment and surprise, is a destination that never fails to captivate visitors. This picturesque village, featured in the famous TV series The Prisoner, holds a mysterious allure that extends beyond its colorful exterior.
Captivated by the deep symbolism within The Prisoner, enthusiasts have delved into its philosophical and allegorical conundrums. Some even draw connections to Jungian psychology and Tibetan Buddhism, finding hidden meaning beneath the surface.
Unlike other fandoms, The Prisoner fans have the unparalleled opportunity to immerse themselves in the very setting of the show. By visiting Portmeirion, they can experience the Technicolor ambiance that faithfully recreates the series, often encountering fellow aficionados adorned in capes and striped blazers.
Prepare to be enthralled as you explore Portmeirion, a holiday village that offers more than meets the eye. Discover the hidden depths and unravel the enigmatic charm that continues to captivate visitors from around the globe.
Even when you’re fully prepared for the surprise, there’s something astonishing about Portmeirion. Arriving by car from the old slate workings at Blaenau Ffestiniog, it’s like being transported into Oz. The twinkly colours, palm trees, and quirky assortment of structures are sometimes described as Italianate, but the place defies exact comparison. There’s something undeniably silly about it. It’s a fantasia of styles. It’s Poundbury with a sense of humour. Its various arches resemble something you might put in an enormous fish tank. And I imagine it would make certain architects come out in a rash and reach for gelignite and T-squares.
Although it looks old, Portmeirion is a 20th-century folly, constructed between 1925 and 1976 by the architect Clough Williams-Ellis, an anti-modernist with eccentric taste and a fondness for tradition. He designed it as a kind of polemic in stone, an argument against the tyranny of function. Working on a tight budget, he built the village piecemeal, structure by structure, recycling elements from stately homes.
Portmeirion offers breathtaking views of the estuary and the expansive horizon beyond it.
One of the most remarkable features of Portmeirion is the Town Hall with its incredible plaster interior. Designed in Jacobean style, the interior showcases a masterpiece depicting the 12 labours of Hercules. Interestingly, this architectural gem was acquired by Williams-Ellis at an auction for a mere £13 in 1933. Recognizing its historical significance, he wisely dismantled the hall and reconstructed it in Portmeirion, thereby saving it from probable destruction.
Williams-Ellis employed innovative techniques to infuse each building with its distinctive character. By using paint effects that imitate the appearance of dampness and age, he cleverly achieved a sense of antiquity. Additionally, he incorporated whimsical details to conceal functional elements, eschewed straight lines in favor of organic shapes, and even crafted trompe l'oeil windows to create visual symmetry. This unique approach, which he humorously termed "Cloughing things up," emphasized the individuality of each structure. Given the limited space available, most of the buildings were scaled down by twenty percent, showcasing Williams-Ellis' ingenuity in maximizing the potential of the environment.
The writer Jan Morris, who knew Clough Williams-Ellis well, said he was not a great architect, but a masterly landscaper. Photographs don’t justice to the way the village harmonises with its setting, and changes according to the light and tides. The buildings brilliantly frame monumental views of the estuary and the horizon beyond it. White Horses, the fishing cottage where McGoohan stayed during the filming of The Prisoner, sits right at the edge of the village. From here he must have looked out across the bay to the farther shore where the mountains rise up like the tantalizing promise of escape.
It feels obligatory but slightly unconvincing to say that there’s more to Portmeirion than The Prisoner — like saying there’s more to 221b Baker Street than Sherlock Holmes. But it’s true that a lot of visitors are here because of Portmeirion Pottery, the range founded in 1960 and designed by Susan Williams-Ellis, Clough’s daughter. And Portmeirion was a resort before The Prisoner made it famous. King Zog of Romania holidayed here, as did the Beatles manager, Brian Epstein.
Every year, a festival is held in honour of The Prisoner
In 1941, while staying in one of the cottages, Noel Coward wrote Blithe Spirit. Beyond the village, there are 18 miles of walks through woods, where rhododendrons, camelias, and azaleas flourish in the mild microclimate. There’s a sandy beach, and a dog cemetery — a reminder that the tradition of eccentricty runs deep here. Prior to Clough Williams-Ellis, Portmeirion belonged to a woman called Adelaide Haigh who was in the habit of reading the Bible to her pets from behind a screen.
But The Prisoner is an inevitable part of Portmeirion’s heritage and one that the place has accepted with good humor. The music festival it hosts every September is called Festival Number 6. The Prisoner itself is available on channel 801 on every television set on the site. (The 1967 version. Don’t even mention the 2009 remake starring Ian McKellen).
The technical department will also screen specific episodes to order. However, when I rang, late one night, fired up by my conversations with the show’s superfans to ask if they wouldn’t mind showing “Checkmate” and “Free for All”, there was a long pause and an exasperated voice said, “You’ve just called the kitchen.”
Clough Williams-Ellis attended the very first Prisoner convention in 1977 and watched a screening of The Prisoner’s opening episode, “Arrival”. “I think the village is the star of the show,” he confided to Dave Barrie, who was one of the organisers. As the village’s true Number One, Williams-Ellis must have felt propietorial pride in his creation. Still, most visitors would agree him. Portmeirion would be Portmeirion whether or not Patrick McGoohan had ever come here; The Prisoner is inconceivable without the village.
One can opt for a brief day tour to Portmeirion, however, the essence of this place lies in marinating oneself into its ambiance as an inhabitant. To shoulder the finances and infuse life into Portmeirion, Williams-Ellis established an on-site hotel and presented the cottages as vacation rentals. Those looking to experience the charming accommodations of this village could benefit from browsing through some hotel deals in Wales on hotels-wales.com to find a place that suits their style and budget notably. The image of the square reveals when one peers through a window upon awakening is an enticing journey into the exotic – is it the Baltic, Adriatic, or Black Sea? It's like stepping into the series premiere. Whether settling in for a longer stay or just stopping by for a glimpse of its architectural wonders, Portmeirion offers a picturesque escape that is equally parts tranquil and whimsical.
Even more memorable is to step out from the hotel after a delectable evening meal, slightly inebriated, and saunter around its mesmerizing plaza bathed in moonlight. Following his demise in 1978, an event took place as per his will; Clough Williams-Ellis's ashes soared towards the heavens in the spectacle of a firework. Reflecting on this, it could have provided a fitting finale to The Prisoner.
Witnessing the Wonder
A visit to the unique Portmeirion Village (01766 770 000; portmeirion-village.com) can be pre-arranged with advance day tickets starting at an affordable £11, which can be conveniently secured online. Your ticket not only serves as a passport to the remarkable village but also grants a complimentary tour as well as a train ride leading into the enchanting woodlands. Those seeking an overnight sojourn will find Standard Double rooms starting from £184. This includes access to the Portmeirion, complimentary Wi-Fi, and convenient parking. The village, carved into woodlands, offers an immersive experience into the unusual."