36 Hours in Toronto
THERE’S something happening in Toronto. While so many cities lament the global economic crisis and the dulling effects of globalization, boutiques and restaurants seem to open every week in Toronto, and immigrant neighborhoods still feel linguistically, gastronomically, gloriously, distinct. The cultural diversity and urbanity seem limitless. But it’s hardly an urban jungle. Toronto is filled with lush, insistent greenery and an abundance of parks. It’s hard to imagine a better city to explore in summer.
Friday
4 p.m.
1. TO MARKET, TO MARKET
Toronto is full of food havens, but the market everyone talks about is Kensington, actually a series of cool coffeehouses, organic fruit stands and bars on the edge of Chinatown, a bustling sea of shops filled with Mandarin and Cantonese speakers. Start there, and make your way to the market. Check out the books and high-end kitchen paraphernalia at Good Egg (267 Augusta Avenue; 416-593-4663; goodegg.ca), then try a vegan muffin at Urban Herbivore (64 Oxford Street; 416-927-1231; fressenrestaurant.com; 2.44 Canadian dollars, about the same in United States currency), or a coffee at the Sublime Cafe (219 Augusta Avenue; 416-732-0431; thesublimecafe.com), which doubles as a vintage soul record shop. From there, wander into Bellevue Park. At the edge is the gorgeous Byzantine Revival Kiever Synagogue (25 Bellevue Avenue; 416-593-9702; kievershul.com), built in 1927 by Ukrainian Jews, evidence that the area was once a center for Jewish immigrants.
7 p.m.
2. APERITIF
Quench your thirst with an Augusta Ale (5.50 dollars) at Thirsty & Miserable (197 Baldwin Street; 647-607-0134,), which opened in February on the site of a former punk bar. It still feels pretty punk, with red walls and punk-hero photos on the walls. Or have a Duggans No. 9 pale ale (6.75 dollars) around the corner at Embassy Bar (223 Augusta Avenue; 416-591-1132), where the atmosphere is low-key and the red vinyl booths are filled with those who love the random D.J.-spun auditory mix, from the Cure to old ’60s to reggae.
8:30 p.m.
3. NOURISH
When it comes to satisfying your taste buds, Queen Street West in Toronto is the place to be. This bustling street is home to a plethora of restaurants offering delectable dishes in a rustic-hipster ambiance, complete with filament lights and hardwood floors.
If you're in the mood for innovative and locally sourced Canadian cuisine, Ursa is a must-visit (924 Queen Street West; 416-536-8963; ursa-restaurant.com). The dining experience at Ursa is truly avant-garde, with its intimate and dark stained wood dining room. Indulge in flavorful dishes such as sherry broth-infused exotic mushrooms ($13) or whey-brined Niagara pork loin accompanied by kale, lentils, and sunchoke purée ($24). Notably, Ursa even makes their own tofu in-house.
For another dining option on Queen Street West, Terroni (720 Queen Street West, 416-504-1992; terroni.com) is a popular choice. Renowned for its thin-crust whole-wheat pizzas and homemade ravioli, Terroni's culinary delights are sure to please any appetite. Don't miss out on the chance to unwind on their black-stained back deck, often frequented by a trendy crowd.
Experience the fusion of tantalizing flavors and trendy atmosphere at these unique dining establishments on Queen Street West in Toronto.
11:30 p.m.
4. BOUNCE AND DRINK
Toronto’s indie music scene thrives after 11 p.m. At Poetry Jazz Café (244 Augusta Avenue; 416-599-5299; poetryjazzcafe.com), the draws are a secluded back patio, live jazz bands and D.J.’s. At the Dakota Tavern, a subterranean honky-tonk haven (249 Ossington Avenue; 416-850-4579; thedakotatavern.com), you can hear everything from country to new folk (cover is usually between 5 and 10 dollars).
Saturday
10 a.m.
5. EYE OPENERS
Brunch is an urban sport in Toronto, and it can be impossible to find a seat. Try the Beaver (1192 Queen Street West; 416-537-2768; beavertoronto.ca), if only for the French 75 cocktails (cucumber, lemon, gin and prosecco, 6.75 dollars), the Bloody Caesar (like a bloody mary, but with clam juice) and the mustachioed waiter out of “Portlandia.” Or make the trip up to College Street for the grilled Canadian Cheddar cheese challah sandwich with a fried egg and homemade ketchup at the garage-sale chic Aunties and Uncles (74 Lippincott Street; 416-324-1375; auntiesanduncles.ca, breakfast for two comes to about 25 dollars).
Noon
6. INSIDE AND OUT
While the Royal Ontario Museum, with its sharp-angled Daniel Libeskind addition, is a crowd pleaser, the Art Gallery of Ontario (317 Dundas Street West; 416-979-6648; ago.net; 25 dollars) truly impresses, with a shell designed by the Toronto-born Frank Gehry. This summer, a blockbuster Picasso exhibition features treasures from the Musée National Picasso in Paris. Leave time to have a coffee in the atrium at the end of the exhibition; the light, and the light wood, can’t fail to uplift.
2 p.m.
7. GREEN BREAK
The lush Trinity Bellwoods Park, between Queen Street West and Dundas Street West, is filled with well-dressed residents, dogs, children and yoga practitioners. Take a breather here, then walk over a block to the exhibition at the Museum of Contemporary Canadian Art (952 Queen Street West; 416-395-0067; mocca.ca), a huge warehouse-style gallery space excellent for large-form photography.
Exploring the Vibrant Streets of Toronto
3 p.m.
8. DISCOVER UNIQUE FINDS
Embark on a captivating adventure through Ossington Street and its surrounding areas, where a plethora of hidden treasures await. I Miss You is a boutique (63 Ossington Avenue; 416-916-7021) that boasts exquisite 1980s Chanel gowns available for purchase, complete with pristine tags. Delve into a nostalgic realm with Peggy Olson-inspired, late-1950s smart-silk dresses priced at a reasonable $85. Take time to peruse their diverse collection of bags in various styles and price ranges.
Penny Arcade Vintage (1177 Dundas Street West; 647-346-1386; pennyarcadevintage.com) is a haven for both vintage and contemporary fashion enthusiasts. Discover an array of fabulous undergarments and swimwear designed by local designer Minnow, embodying the timeless charm of the 1950s ($140). To further embrace local craftsmanship, make your way to Parkdale’s charming shops. At Made You Look (1273 Queen Street West; 416-516-9595; madeyoulook.ca), you'll find an enticing selection of beautifully crafted Canadian-designed jewelry.
The Future Of Frances Watson (1390 Queen Street West; 416-531-8892; thefutureoffranceswatson.blogspot.com) offers an alluring collection of vintage-inspired strapless one-piece bathers by the renowned label Insight ($160). Dive into style with raw, high-waisted Japanese denim starting at $130 and experience the fashion-forward offerings of this unique boutique.
6 p.m.
9. TASTE THE LOCAL FLAVORS
Journey back to Ossington Street and immerse yourself in the cozy ambiance of Bellwoods Brewery (124 Ossington Avenue; 416-535-4586; bellwoodsbrewery.com). Once a simple garage, this charming establishment has been transformed with whitewashed walls, hardwood accents, and a long bar that beckons beer enthusiasts. With its intimate setting and capacity for only 40 indoor seats, you'll be able to savor the experience while enjoying the beers brewed on site. Indulge in the delightful Farmhouse Saison ($7.50) and pair it with a plate of their irresistible pickled vegetables, featuring rhubarb, carrot, and sprouts ($5).
9 p.m.
10. EAT FRESH
Tom Thai practiced fusion at several Toronto mainstays before opening his own shop. The tiny dining room at Foxley Bistro (207 Ossington Avenue; 416-534-8520) produces some of the best fusion cuisine in the city, at pleasing prices. Try the series of wildly different ceviches meant for sharing — sea bream with yuzu and shizo (15 dollars), wild Arctic char with apples and ginger (15 dollars) — and the fragrant oven-steamed sea bass with Asian greens and white truffle oil (22 dollars).
11:30 p.m.
11. SIP AND SAVOR
Little Portugal’s main drag, Dundas Street West, remains Portuguese by day. The pharmacist speaks in her native tongue; the old women might be in Porto. By evening the district is filled with tipplers from all over the city. To the west of Ossington Avenue are Communist’s Daughter and the Red Light, coolio dives. But the year-old Cocktail Bar (923 Dundas Street West; 416-792-7511; theblackhoof.com), slightly to the east, is for grown-ups, with its dreamily lighted interior, tin ceiling, subway-tiled walls and bold cocktail list (try the summery Lavender Hound, with lavender-infused gin, lemon and grapefruit juice, 9 dollars). The owner is Jen Agg, the 36-year-old owner of Black Hoof, a celebration-of-meat restaurant and the month-old, seafood-focused Hoof Raw Bar, both conveniently across the street.
Sunday
10 a.m.
12. Get Your Morning Started
Start off your day with a dose of caffeine and a delicious homemade berry scone at Ella's Uncle. Located in the charming Little Portugal neighborhood, Ella's Uncle (916 Dundas Street West) is known for its superb espressos and cozy atmosphere. Another great option is The County General, where you can indulge in a messy-delicious croque monsieur. The reclaimed-wood tables add a rustic touch to the dining experience at this Queen Street West gem.
Did you know that Ella's Uncle offers more than just coffee and pastries? They also have a delightful selection of brunch items and sandwiches that are worth exploring. And if you're curious about The County General, you'll be pleased to know that their menu features a variety of mouthwatering dishes, from classic favorites to innovative creations.
Noon
13. Discover the Outdoors
Instead of staying in the city, head over to the Toronto Islands for a picturesque outdoor experience. Take the ferry, departing every 30 minutes from 9 Queen Quay West, and enjoy a scenic ride while taking in the stunning Toronto skyline. Once you arrive on the islands, you'll have plenty of options to keep yourself occupied. Whether you want to rent bikes and explore the island, play volleyball on the beach, or simply relax and soak up the sun, the Toronto Islands offer something for everyone.
As an alternative, you could also consider visiting High Park, located in the western part of Toronto. This expansive park is known for its beautiful green spaces, walking trails, and even a zoo. The choice is yours – either way, you'll get to enjoy the fresh air and natural beauty that Toronto has to offer.
VISITING THE CITY
Explore the exquisite atmosphere of the 12-room Hotel Ocho (195 Spadina Avenue; 416-593-0885; hotelocho.com; beginning at 171 dollars). This accommodation gem, which originally launched in 1902 as a textile factory, is situated in bustling Chinatown. Transforming this historic building into a trendy hotel was a venture led by the cutting-edge experts at Design38. The hotel's ground level, with its bar, lounge, enticing restaurant and cozy coffee shop, has become a favorite hangout among the locals.
No trip to Toronto would be complete without experiencing the 37-room Gladstone Hotel (1214 Queen Street West; 416-531-4635; gladstonehotel.com; starting from 165 dollars). This isn't merely a place to sleep; it's an artistic journey. The first two levels are adorned with dynamic exhibitions, giving an enchanting ambiance. Each room exhibits the creativity of a different artist, making this hotel a living canvas. Fun fact: the Sunday bluegrass brunch is a hit, particularly amongst families with children.
Not just in the city, but you can find similar ambiance and boutique experiences across the country, courtesy of the hotel deals in Ontario on www.ontariocahotel.com. This platform gives you a plethora of options to choose from, maintaining the essence of Canadian hospitality and grandeur.
For more recommendations on other top-rated hotels not just in Toronto, but in various parts of Canada, reference your search to tophotels.com. From five-star luxury to homely bed and breakfasts, this home-grown platform ensures you have a list of potential accommodations that fit your preference and budget.